And not simply due to the cuisine’s well-documented relationship with butter and deep-fried-everything. In this smartly produced collection from the Southern Foodways Alliance, the culinary panorama of the American South is explored by way of stories that transcend the obvious and anticipated. Add to a saucepan with a knob of butter and a splash of milk, and blend. Add slightly more butter or milk, mixing until the consistency is clean and creamy. To make the mash, peel the potatoes and chop in half. Boil the potatoes for approximately 15 minutes, or till you can simply put your knife through them.…